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Old 02-15-2017, 12:33 AM   #71 (permalink)
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OK,,,
After sitting back and looking at the stairwell and dwelling on it, I have come to the following conclusions.
I can't just carry over the shelf, I will have to instead use a removable bridge to fill the gap. Here's why.
This shelf, around the wall, sticks out 7.5 inches from the wall and is pretty much solidly attached to wall and this house will be on the market in a couple years. Since it sticks out so far, it might hit someone on the head or shoulder as they near the top of the stairs. This might cause some injuries. I would hate to cause someone to hit their head or possibly fall down the stairs. In addition, removing the shelf would require sheetrock repairs since the trim is nailed and glued and the supports are screwed, glued and caulked to the shelf and wall. So...
I have decided to use a bridge to connect the curved shelf in one corner to the half wall at the top of the stairs. This way i can remove the bridge if i sell the house and i don't have to worry about the next occupant injuring themselves on the shelf.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:52 AM   #72 (permalink)
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INSPIRING! But a lot of work that requires patience. Might be beyond me.
http://gscaletrain.blogspot.com/2011...tch-03-15.html
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:50 PM   #73 (permalink)
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One other idea, about using the shelf on the half-wall. You could make a removable shelf, with a back on it. Say, an L-shape made of 1x6's or 8's, painted like the rest. A minimal number of screws could secure it to the existing shelf, and allow its quick removal. The back board would be for fall-prevention.

At its end, at the top of the landing, could be a hinged segment to the opposite wall.

Just thoughts, FWIW.
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Old 02-20-2017, 04:55 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffyJ View Post
One other idea, about using the shelf on the half-wall. You could make a removable shelf, with a back on it. Say, an L-shape made of 1x6's or 8's, painted like the rest. A minimal number of screws could secure it to the existing shelf, and allow its quick removal. The back board would be for fall-prevention.

At its end, at the top of the landing, could be a hinged segment to the opposite wall.

Just thoughts, FWIW.
Yep thats how i thought i might attach the bridge.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:01 AM   #75 (permalink)
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So today, i was testing the rolling stock in the R2 corners, sending them trough at various speeds and weights. All cars did well in the turn with no unusual bogging down in the turn EXCEPT,, the Caboose, which would derail intermittently.
After pulling apart the truck and inspecting and lubricating, i tried it again and the problem persisted. After staring at it a while i noticed the axles were nearly a full 2mm shorter than my other cars. The inside wheels were literally falling off the rail. Has anyone ever experienced this with a Bachmann 4 wheel caboose?


UPDATE* Turns out it was an easy fix just twisting the wheels a bit to open up the gap. Apparently the plastic spacing piece on the middle of the axle had shrunk a tad with age which affected the wheel spacing.

Last edited by OldNoob; 02-20-2017 at 05:45 AM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:48 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Good to take a set of calipers and set ALL wheels back to back properly.

NMRA has specs and so does my site (referencing the standards)

While there you can lube your axles... Since you are indoors, I'd suggest dry lube, like powdered moly. Make sure there is no oil or grease in the journals first.

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Old 02-20-2017, 09:42 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Elmassian View Post
Good to take a set of calipers and set ALL wheels back to back properly.

NMRA has specs and so does my site (referencing the standards)

While there you can lube your axles... Since you are indoors, I'd suggest dry lube, like powdered moly. Make sure there is no oil or grease in the journals first.

Greg
Thanks Greg, that's going to be some helpful resources. I figure some of my stock is over 30 years old and probably does indeed need to be checked out.
Now why do you advise dry lube over synthetic plastic safe grease?
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:53 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Been thinking about the bridge and i have decided since it is going to be indoor, that i would go ahead and make it from the plywood scraps i have left over. Today while at the Hardware store i noticed a clearance priced gallon of paint that had apparently been mixed wrong and rejected by a previous customer, but i saw it and noticed that it's pretty much the perfect color for my bridge. So that was a pleasant experience.
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:53 PM   #79 (permalink)
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From my site:

(there is a page on lubrication)

Dry vs. wet lubricants:

I prefer to use dry lubricants for situations where there is plastic on at least one bearing surface, like most wheel journals. The dry lubricants tend not to gather grit. The dry lubricants I recommend are graphite/molybdenum mixtures. The "moly" tends to "plate" the plastic and works very well.


When it's metal to metal, then I like a lithium-based grease with moly in it. Again, the moly tends to "plate" the surfaces and make them very slippery.


Oil is usually good on the rods on a steam loco.


The smaller moving parts in valve gear will take a "light" oil.


Grease is good for sleeve type bearings where there is a higher load, and grease on the gears.


On motors, a drop of oil on the shafts, and heavier oil on really big motors.
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:42 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Ok i narrowed my bridge option down to ether a simple truss or Bow truss design.
I like the look of the bow truss, although i am limited to a 12 inch height with my current materials
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