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Old 02-13-2017, 06:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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JJ, how did you get the wheels on one axle turning independently? The bearings have to go between the axle and the wheel to be independent, but you say you put them in the trucks.

Am I misunderstanding?

As stated before, ball bearings in the journals will help rolling resistance on the straight, but not very effective on tight turns, which I believe is the question.

Greg
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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BBs & differentialed axles have always been a good idea, but until the Avid R/C, bearings for a buc,
deal came along it was always to expensive, the BB part that is, differentialing an axle is easy and
cheap though... So in todays world U can make up BBinged, differentialed axles for less than $2.50
a pop that will work about as well the hi-priced spread... I have all the rolling stock that I use regularly
equipped with these bearings for several years now, about 80 pieces, even differentialed some of
them, and have not one failure or problem of any sort with them... U won't have the electrical P/Us
afforded U by the hi-priced units, but who cares for most rolling stock... The usual caveat with BB
equipped rolling stock though, don't store long-term in unconditioned spaces...
Paul R
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Paul, do you add some insulation between axle and wheel, or put just one bb in the "uninsulated" side, and bb the journals as well?

For most people, I would think they would need a mill or lathe to "create" a "differential" BB wheelset.

Please elucidate.

Greg
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Old 02-18-2017, 05:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Greg,
I put BBs in the journals only, leave the wheels intact on the axles, no need to mess with
them at all... I cut the axles in the center, taking out what I want to remove, insert a single
ball, steel or plastic, between the two axle stubs, with a piece of plastic or brass tubing cut
to the required length slid over the whole thing... Works great, did some this way back in
the mid 90s, and their still in service... I've probably oversimplified this, but anybody can
quickly figure out what I am doing here... Having my own little machine shop is a big plus
for these type of things, but U could do this with a hacksaw, a bench grinder, and a file...
Its kinda labor intensive, but the cost is about 25 cents !!! Gotta love that...
Paul R...
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Old Yesterday, 06:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't see how you hold gauge of the wheelsets, clearly a metal ball between the 2 cut axles will set the minimum dimension of the back to back, but how do you keep the wheels from spreading away from each other?

Also how do you keep the tubing in place? glue to one half axle? then you have to pick the tubing exactly right, too small or large and you will get binding.

Greg
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Old Yesterday, 05:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Elmassian View Post
I don't see how you hold gauge of the wheelsets, clearly a metal ball between the 2 cut axles will set the minimum dimension of the back to back, but how do you keep the wheels from spreading away from each other?

Also how do you keep the tubing in place? glue to one half axle? then you have to pick the tubing exactly right, too small or large and you will get binding.

Greg
Paul;
Your differential is very ingenious, clever; complements all round. Got somewhat stuck on "differentialing". There should to be 2 l's; differentialling. ( It's a rivet counting type of thing. )

The axle sleeve you created is really a sleeve bearing. Doesn't it need lubrication if it's brass? If common plastic tubing maybe a tiny little lube as or if needed,. It seems there would also be a wear issue with a brass sleeve rubbing against the back of the wheel. The brass sleeve is always going to rub the back of either or both wheel. Could using PTFE (Teflon) tube being self lubricating and no wheel back wear. Using a PTFE ball (or other self lubricating material) there's no need to lube the ball to axle surfaces either. While I'd think dust getting in the axle sleeve would be a wear issue it sounds like you've not run into that issue.

With your differential solution you could forgo the journal bearing since the worst wear condition, fixed axle wheels going through curves, has been effectively removed.. It seems a small PTFE tube journal insert (friction fit) would be more than enough improvement for very low friction operation. But as cheap as those BB are and if going through the differential thing of course why not?


Greg;
The cut axle with a single ball is made to keep the same dimension as the original back-to-back wheel spacing. The axle sleeve is nominally a mm less than the b2b dim. Then the axle end-to-end dimension doesn't change and all is well. The sleeve slipping off isn't an issue. Any side-to-side movement of either wheel or the total assembly is accounted for in the normal unaltered axle wheel s2s free plays in the journals.

Seems to me the sleeve ID must be very close to the axle diameter so the wheels don't wobble. Here's where PTFE seems ideal. It could be the closest to the axle diameter and its self lubricating properties still allow for independent movement of either wheel under load. The wheels only need to move independently on curves. And if the PTFE tube does have just enough friction keep the wheels from moving independently on straight track that would be normal behavior.

Last edited by Chris Scott; Yesterday at 05:31 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 11:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The amount to which the back to back can spread will be the same as the original wheelset sideplay amount in the journals. If too much, it would made the guard rails on switches ineffective. I don't think lubrication of the tube is that critical because most of the time there will be little revolutionary difference between each side anyway. As an extreme example with an R1 circle, there would only be about 1.5 wheel revolutions difference between each wheel.

Andrew
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Old Today, 02:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Chris, still not answering my question about how to control going "wide".

Thank you Andrew, you get what I am asking. It seems to me that the width of the wheels can grow to the extent of the sideplay in the truck journals. If the half axles slide in and out of the center sleeve, then maybe operationally everything sort of works, sounds like this depends a lot on switches, wing rail and guard rail dimensions.

Greg
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