I think it's mostly down to whether the heat will damage what you're gluing, and how easily it flows. I only ever use my wife's two-temp gun on hi, since I'm not gluing fabric. At high temp the glue flows better, too.
I do not use hot glue as the hot sun will soften the glue outdoors and the winter cold will make it loose the bond.
I stored a caboose in my unheated garage for 2 years and when I opened it all I had was pieces to glue and reassemble.
I haven't use PVC, but I have used ABS (black) on parts of my cars and locomotives, mostly Bachmann. I apply a tiny bit in an inconspicuous spot with a toothpick to see if it "melts" the plastic. Generally if the part is black hard plastic and unpainted I have success.
When gluing plastic, the type of glue I use depends on the plastic...
I've had great success with the UHU glue that comes with Piko/Pola buildings, it will even work to repair parts on LGB locos. It seems relatively strong, though I've bought some older, used-outdoors buildings where the joints have been weak. I attribute this to age and poor gluing, but nothing I've personally glued with this stuff has been outside over two years. You can buy this on-line, it's called UHU Plast.
For scratch building with polystyrene, I prefer plain old MEK--it wicks between pieces and is a solvent glue, but for me has been pretty well behaved (not messy, doesn't "over dissolve" pieces.) I've had problems with the Weld-On 16 being too aggressive. Generally, I use a pin-point application of superglue to stick the parts together and then use MEK for strength. MEK can soften/distort parts if you puddle it on them (ask me how I know )
I've had fairly good luck with the Lock-tite gel adhesive for gluing together the CMS buildings, which are cast styrene. I think because of the thickness of the material, the "normal" glues haven't worked well for me. I also use this adhesive to glue together Hirst-Arts cast parts when building structures. Outdoor construction adhesive works for joining large pieces where the glue isn't in a visible spot (i.e. inside corners for strength)
For acrylic and other "unusual" plastics, I use specialty glues designed for the application.
I have used hot glue to aid in gluing pieces together. EXAMPLE: Gluing wall of building together. Spot of hot glue at top and bottom. Regular glue in middle. Stick together. Hot glue dries fast holding the walls together while other glue dries. Works on wood plastic or metal. I also use hotglue for gluing passengers in coaches. Not strength really require there.
I generally consider hot melt glues a temporary adhesive. Not meant for permanent bond especially outdoors.
The list of adhesives above is also my stable of products. For example, when bonding two things together with a glue that takes time to setup and parts may move, use a dab of hot glue to hold them while the "real" adhesive cures....
Jerry
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