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Old 12-18-2008, 10:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Anyone familiar with the dremel 18"?
I know it is variable speed, has a tilting table and takes 5" blades, but how does it cut?
Is there a lot of vibration?

What thickness's of wood and brass can it cut and what type of finish does it leave on the edge?
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

RK,

I rarely make it this far down the forums list.

I bought a Dremel s/s perhaps 25 years ago. It was a piece of tin junk. Noisy--"much ado about nothing"-- and worst, you could bump the head with your hand and tilt the blade off level by a serious amount. I paid a C note for it, and took it back the next day and got my money back. With difficulty. Never paid any attention to Dremel tools since, save their rotaries and certain of their 'drill presses', all of which I bought at garage sales for under $5.

A better tool is the Harbor Freight variable speed bandsaw, IMNSHO, at less money. At least it has a cast iron frame.

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Old 02-10-2009, 06:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Buddy of mine has one that he uses on his scroll saw work. Cut through an inch thick board of ash I gave him. He's been doing stuff for over a year with it and I've heard no complaints. I love the Dremen rotaries, use my 4 all the time. One is in their drill press setup, it's a two speed, my multi-speed plug in is my newest and it works great. I have one of the old straight battery powered ones that is good for slow work. The ergonomic battery unit is fantastic! Use it all the time also.
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Jerry,

Not sure if you mean a Dremel scrollsaw or an Asian one, but if you mean Dremel, I imagine they've had a lot of time to redesign.

Cutting through a thick anything doesn't tell a lot about a scrollsaw--what you want is a stable, always-plumb cut, and no vibration to screw things up. In both these areas my early Dremel was a miserable failure.

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Old 02-10-2009, 07:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Jerry,

I forgot to add that I have two Dremel drill presses--both old--that I find useful, and that I am eyeing the 'mini-mill' they offer--but with vast suspicion.

Plus, I have a baker's half-dozen Dremel rotaries, some so old I'm having to think of making collets for them (tells you how well D. supports old stuff, eh?) I certainly didn't intend to down 'em out of hand. They're quite useful in their place.

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Old 02-11-2009, 11:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

I was talking about the Asian one from HF. Funny, my question doesn't show up on my browser. Can you see it?
I have two drill presses one is an old Sears Craftsman,,, about 60 years old to be exact, with some great features like adjust on the fly variable speeds (mechanical not electrical) a locking spindle, forward and reverse, and a foot pedal. Its a bench top model and I use it mainly for milling.
The other is a rockwell (about 22 years old) variable speed. Variable speed but you have to stop it to change the belts. It does have an adjustable table though that works on a pinion gear.
I have two dremel rotary tools, but one of them is misplaced at this time. I like them but on both of them the 1 speed (the slowest) does not work.
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Rk,

Yes, I can see your question on my browser.

That old Craftsman was likely made by Atlas--an industrial tool maker. Downgraded somewhat, but still far superior to anything available today at a reasonable price. Take care of it! Keep it cleaned and oiled.

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Old 02-12-2009, 11:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Les,
It's my baby. Works much better than the Rockwell. I adjusted the gibs on the rotary milling table this weekend and found that the chatter I thought was related to the spindle was gone
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

RK,

I want to post to suggest to you not to overload that sturdy, valuable old Craftsman while using it as a mill.

A mill has a much sturdier head and quill assy. A drill press doesn't match up that way because it isn't designed for side loads as a mill quill is. You can wear out that drill fast if you 'crowd' it. Also, a three-jaw chuck, by its nature, isn't designed for side loads either. Accuracy suffers.

Craftsman went through an advertising streak in the 80s to the effect that everything that rotated could also be a sander. They even sold sanding belts for woodcutting bandsaws. You'll note they no longer do this. (Mostly because they're going down the toilet, quality-wise.

As for the chatter that you are pleased at eliminating--as you should be: envision those noises as shocks, because that's what they are. For everything your ear heard, your drill press quill took it on the chin, not having the luxury to dissapate some of the energy into sound waves.

It is very difficult to get across the idea that drilling and milling take energy. If they didn't, who'd throw away his eggbeater drill and buy a drill press? Well, once you have a drill press, you have a machine designed to absorb energy in the vertical direction, in the main. Wobble from unevenly-sharpened drills is accommodated to some extent, else the quill would soon get sloppy and the buyer would get a different brand, next time.

A mill, OTOH, has a heavier quill and bearing support, because side loads are expected and accounted for. But that 'meat' in the form of steel or cast iron which absorbs the energy used by the bit to remove pieces of the material being worked.
Just file a piece, or scrape it by hand, and see how much energy you expend. Multiply that by the speed of the bit being fed into the same material, and you might conclude 'yo, work!' And I left out the energy turned to heat as distracting.

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Old 02-12-2009, 01:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default RE: dremel 1830 18" scroll saw

Thanks for the advise Les. I realized that about the drill press long ago. Because it wasn't designed for side loads, I do not mill anything harder than brass and I don't try to push it through quickly. Its what I would call my last resort milling option. If I need that perfect milled cut I will do it in very small increments at very slow feed rates. As soon as I started to notice the chatter, I stopped milling for a long time, and didn't start again till after I tuned up the rotary milling table.
A while back I noticed that the carriage on the milling table had a lot of slop. I didn't attribute the chatter to the slop in the table because I thought it was from the quill. I only noticed it one day as I was clamping a piece on the table to drill holes in a circular pattern and discovered that while I was clamping the piece, the table was moving a little. Needless to say, I didn't drill the pieces, but took the mill table off the press, turned it upside down and discovered that the rotary portion was not moving put one of the the slides was jiggle quit a bit.
I cleaned up the ways a bit and then adjust the gibs until the action was smooth and stable.
The carriage was also a tiny bit loose so I repeated this on the carriage.
After I put the table back on the press, I decided to see how it would do on milling up some 22 gauge brass for the pedestal on my ruby. I was happy to find that there was absolutely no chatter on the milling bit. and that unlike previous experiences the cut width was actually the diameter of the end mill.
The drill press was a gift from my father-in-law about 22 years ago. He and I picked it up along with a craftsman metal lathe (which we sold unfortunately) and a lot of other machining tools that I knew nothing about at the time, from an estate sale in S. Cal. Apparently the guy that owned it was an old army buddy of my father-in-law that passed away that year.
The milling table was already attached to the drill press when I got it, so was the first end mill bit I had ever owned. I'm assuming the original owner used it as a mill, but for the first 5 years I owned it, I took the milling table off and kept it as a curiosity while I used the drill press in my cabinet shop set up to drill holes for the 32 mm hardware I used to install on my cabinets.
It wasn't until I started checking out MLS, that I realized what I had was a milling table. (Believe it or not my father was a machinist but I knew/still know very little about the profession). I dug the milling table up out of storage about 3 years ago, cleaned it up and mounted it to the table.
Unfortunately I loss the hold downs that originally came with it, so I have jerry rigged some.
WAY TOO MUCH INFO,,, I KNOW,,, but my question is
would running small stuff through it at slow speeds be too much of a burden on the quill? As I said, once I tuned the table up, there is no more chatter.
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