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Old 01-26-2016, 10:40 PM   #141 (permalink)
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What brand I run depends on the interactions of what I want, who makes it, what the price is, and, who I want to trade money for product with.
The several locomotives are a couple Bachmann Big Haulers, an Annie; and by HLW, a couple steamers, Macks, and Sparkies.
Cars are Bachmann, USA Trains, HLW.
Some cars are scratchbuilt bodies on trucks by any of the above 3.
Some day I'll get something finished. Maybe.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:41 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I run LGB old west steam era (except for the cleaning loco), track and power. I am not as worried about true to life replication as I am about reliability. I have one Bachmann Reindeer car that won't stay coupled so I have stopped using it. I will eventually upgrade to a newer DCC system. Just haven't figured out which one yet.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:45 AM   #143 (permalink)
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I now run what I like. Kit HLW with body mounted kadees, lots of LGB and converted half my engines to DCC. I installed DPDT switches to select DC or DCC on all my tracks.
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Old 02-01-2020, 11:02 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clubber View Post
I run LGB old west steam era (except for the cleaning loco), track and power. I am not as worried about true to life replication as I am about reliability. I have one Bachmann Reindeer car that won't stay coupled so I have stopped using it. I will eventually upgrade to a newer DCC system. Just haven't figured out which one yet.
I recomend putting Kadee couplers on all rolling stock. You will have reliable coupling to all rolling stock. They have many options for mounting, body mount is best, but requires larger curves. Most truck mount are pretty simple.

Track power DCC is a good option if you are able to matain your track power. There is a huge selection of decoders that will work with any DCC controler.
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:03 AM   #145 (permalink)
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Kadees do not always require larger radius curves, it depends on the length of cars and how far from the wheels the coupler is located. Case in point is my body mounted Kadees on the short HLW kit cars and my LGB FRR cars which are running on a get this 29 inch circle. that is diameter!!!! 14.5 inch radius!!! This runs at times for hours with no issues.
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Old 02-04-2020, 11:50 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Yes, length of cars will make a difference, but what Mike says is comparing the same car truck mount vs. body mount, body mount will require larger curves is accurate.


But on the other hand, you would be surprised how tight a curve body mounts on rolling stock can handle. Normally it's the locomotives that are the issue, or 2 cars of very different lengths with body mounts.


Classic example is USAT SD70 with a short freight car coupled... overhang of SD70 will literally throw a 40' car off the track. (there are creative ways to mount couplers in this case)



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Old 02-05-2020, 12:22 PM   #147 (permalink)
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I am looking at NCEs PH-10R system. It's calling to me. "Buy me, buy me!" Just need to save up the money.
So far I do not have any issues with track power. I am using Aristo on rail clamps with Piko conductive grease. I only have one power hook up point at the moment but I also only have about 140' of track surface laid on my patio and wall pavers so drainage is not an issue. Once it warms up and the ground thaws I plan to increase the number of hook up points.
I have one train converted to Kadees (truck mounts). I have issues with the brake hoses catching on track sensors, point covers and other items inside the track. I do have the Kadee height tool and have to continually adjust them. But I can't recall them ever coming uncoupled. I now run a minimum of R3 curves (because I have the space) but that wasn't always the case.
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Old 02-05-2020, 02:31 PM   #148 (permalink)
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For DCC, maybe just one more, at the furthest point.


It's better to have just a few feeders and good rail joiners in DCC... you can actually overdo it with feeders.. an advanced topic.


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Old 02-18-2020, 05:42 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Quote:
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For DCC, maybe just one more, at the furthest point.


It's better to have just a few feeders and good rail joiners in DCC... you can actually overdo it with feeders.. an advanced topic.


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Greg,

Can you please explain the overdoing of feeders in DCC in a bit more detail?

This statement has me intrigued, is it G scale specific or would it apply to all scales?

I am constructing a DCC layout albeit in HO (same concept different scale) and I have been advised to connect a feeder to each rail length unless I have soldered the joints, most likely to overcome a joiner issue.
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:02 AM   #150 (permalink)
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It's pretty simple conceptually, but often overlooked since most users are not engineers.


Basically in DCC you are trying to deliver the cleanest signal to the locomotives.


This means with the least distortion as compared to what comes out of the booster.


Have you heard of the use of snubbers at the ends of a "dead end" track?


Do you know about signal reflections?


If you do, then I probably don't need to say much more other than it happens at these frequencies.


Perhaps you understand the concept of ground loops?


Let me know if you are familiar with any of the above, as I can answer you in very few words.


Yes, to "current wisdom" is to connect a feeder to every rail, basically saying my joiners are crap... but you can cause other issues that affect the integrity of the signal, and then that still does not address dead end tracks.


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