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Old 09-13-2020, 06:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default O well ...

I should have known that something put off would inevitably not wait. No sooner than I planned not to pull up those #6 switches mentioned previously in this thread, than one switch's point rails lost its screw. It may have vibrated loose while grinding the point rails.



So I pulled up the switch and the others too. Might as well. Fortunately I found the screw. It has a spring between the head and the bottom of the switch. The other point rail's screw was loose too. Here's the screws I'm talking about:





The screwdrivers point to them. Both of the other turnouts also have loose screws. Again, could be lack of quality control at the factory, maybe my grinding loosened them. So I screwed them back sort of tight, not so much that they won't switch. I noticed that the back of the point rail, not the point, the other end, would wobble. Now they don't.


I also brought the flange rails closer to the stock rails - about .1" apart per TedD's recommendation. Now the trains mostly flow smoothly through the switches. The Aristo SD45's still sort of jolt, so I am looking into that. It looks like the SD45's 'like' a little bit wider than correct gauge width as they won't misbehave on parts of the switch where the gauge is wider than the parts where they jolt.


Also, the Aristo Wye's frog causes the SD45's to really jolt, even with the narrower flangeway that I fixed. I checked the gauge and its actually the correct gauge at the frog! One of the only places on the switch that is. So maybe I'll have to grind it wider.



All the other cars and locos (Aristo, LGB and USAT) work great without scaring me when they go through the switches now.
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Again, stuff on the Aristo switches is also on my site. Flangeway widths, geometry, gauge, frog depth, etc.
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Old 09-14-2020, 11:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Greg I love your site! One thing - it looks like my SD45 wheels are the old type - not "D". Their back to back spacing is part of my "jolting" thru the switches problem. Is there a way to get those stretched out? Also, can I grind those outsized flanges shorter like the "D"?
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, very few locos were produced with the "D" type wheels, only the last 2 runs of locos produced.


If you are handy (and I think you are!) you can get some brass shim stock and put between one wheel and the axle to correct the issue.


You have to cut it in a bit of a pie shape to accommodate the tapered axle.


The other way to fix takes total teardown of the gearboxes and shims between the metal half axles and the main worm gear... a lot of work and making the shims is no easy task.


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Old 09-15-2020, 08:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I found the 'jolting' issue!


Followed this article's advice - https://www.elmassian.com/index.php/...ailing-install


Down near the bottom of the article it describes the wheel problem. But my problem is not the wheels - it's the gearbox!


My locos are so old (the 2001 run) and I bought them like new, that the lubrication is practically fossilized. And, the gearboxes inside the truck are supposed to swivel side to side, up and down, but the lube had frozen them in place! Thus, when there is an inconsistency in the track, they acted like a 'centipede with a stiff neck'. (I love "Last of the Giants")


So I took off the bottom cover of the truck and sprayed a drop of PB Blaster on each side of the gearbox and worked them side to side, loosening them back to the original design. I did notice the front gearbox (towards the end of the loco) did not want to wobble as much as the other two, but it does move a bit now.



I ran the SD45s and the improvement is 100% - they do not derail anywhere and don't lift their wheels at all. Best of all, they don't 'jolt' going thru the turnouts!!!
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Old 09-15-2020, 10:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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so, I'd like you to buy some specific loco lubricants, look for the combination pack from hob-e-lube ... use the heavy gear oil on the axles to keep them sliding side to side, lighter lube will not stay there and keep them moving.


As for the gearboxes rocking along the long axis, over the years Aristo changed the rubber pads between the gearbox and the gearboxes several time. No tried and true method, but you could take off the bottom cover and put a bit of light lube on the saddles where the gearboxes swivel..
;
https://elmassian.com/index.php/larg...e-mover-basics


Note what happens if the axles are not lubed to promote side to side movement:
hopefully you read this page



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Old 09-16-2020, 09:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks again Greg.


Can you lube the axles from outside of the gearbox or does it have to be disassembled?
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yes, just a drop of heavy gear oil on the exposed axle, work the axle side to side to work in.



This is a maintenance must... besides the issue you found, there is a club in Florida that regularly destroys their locos, those pictures are from their locos... there is a ball bearing that rides on the axle to pick up power, let it get dry and it grinds a groove in the axle, locking the axle from moving.


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Old 09-17-2020, 07:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
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By heavy gear oil, you could be referring to 80W automotive diff oil possibly? Or is it one of the HobbyLubes?
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Old 09-17-2020, 10:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The hob-e-lube stuff seems to be "sticky" and stays in place.


I'd buy the tried and true stuff, yes you could save a few bucks using automotive stuff, but again this is not a great cost, you won't need to buy it again for years.


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