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Unread 01-06-2020, 01:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Just a general thought on installing RC. It's one of the things I study very carefully at meetings. There are simply so many things one can do some other way. Also I find studying things IRL makes it simpler to notice and understand small aspects on things.

But browsing webpages can certainly give inspiration. Like I found pictures of a reverser servo install, where the servo was mounted in between the the frames, in the wrong end of the reversing rod, instead of in the cab, where one would normally operate a reverser. Everything moves as usual, just the servo acts on the reversing mechanism in an unexpected place.

I don't think I would ever have come up with that idea on my own.

I believe one member here uses chain and two sprocketwheels to connect the servo and throttle. Yet another interesting variation.
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Unread 01-06-2020, 05:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
I believe one member here uses chain and two sprocketwheels to connect the servo and throttle.
Not just one - quite a few of us use 1/8" (0.125") chain and sprockets. It helps in adjusting the amount of throttle movement for a conventional 90 degree servo.
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Unread Today, 10:57 AM   #23 (permalink)
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In the olden and golden days of steam locomotion the fireman worked the hardest stoking the fire for higher boiler pressure for more steam thus fire for more steam pressure. Seems reasonable the same practice applies in our maller world. Maybe not for a small locomotive with a small load but with larger locomotive and the greater the load on a locomotives trying to climb very long shallow grade or a steeper grade more steam is required. Either that or you lose steam pressure with the climb as the steam pressure drops precipitously.

Therefore, if your using RC you need a servo on the gas valve or alcohol valve (not an alcoholic I don't know too much about their firing) or running after a coal locomotive shoveling coal to build steam pressure as well as the steam throttle to increase steam to the cylinders..

Like Tim Allen used to say on his sitcom Home Improvement, "AAAAhhhh, more power, more power.)

Is there something I'm missing or wrong about steam locomotive climbing?

If your running a Shay little of this applies but they're too slow to be fun with grades for me. Their great for switching but then that's kinds too slow for me too.

Last edited by Chris Scott; Today at 11:06 AM.
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Unread Today, 11:37 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Running on a level railroad is boring. See my Betsy pulling 2 heavy flat cars up a hill:



or for that matter my cog loco (under construction):




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Unread Today, 12:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Is there something I'm missing or wrong about steam locomotive climbing?
Chris, well, yes, there is another option. My live steamers may stop on the hill due to lack of puff, but the steam pressure builds up again and then they start moving again - just like the prototype. No need to adjust the gas or alcohol. Doesn't work for a single cylinder like Otto, but I have seen this happen with most of my trains.
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Unread Today, 01:49 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Steam and grades really comes down to what the OP desires in operation. Does he want to sit back, switch off the control(or manual control) and just watch the train run without needing constant attention to the throttle(unless switching/setting out cars), or does he want to be controling the throttle 100% of the time? Grades add opearating challenges, just as on the real ones. Keeping grades mild as possible and curves as large as possible adds to the enjoyment and lessens the risk of a rollover on a curve at the bottom of a grade should speed get a little out of hand. There is also the Slomo inetia device from down under that fits a few models from Roundhouse and Accucraft(mostly UK/Euro models though) that gives the model the response of a real engine that weighs several tons instead of just a few pounds.
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