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Old 04-26-2020, 04:01 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Never mind... figured it out. The jam nut (I think this was mentioned earlier) kept the clevis from screwing far enough into the thread. I removed that and threaded the clevis almost to the end. I was then able to adjust the lever position to get enough travel for forward and reverse.
Thanks - saved me scratching my head. I just installed the reversing servo as my R/C kit arrived yesterday. With the servo installed, I had the same issue - couldn't get it to move far enough to reverse. You can see my 2 marks and the reversing rod is pulled out as far to the right as it will go with the servo in it's proper place.





Some other minor issues were found - the instructions say use the M3 shouldered bolt as a pivot in the servo arm, but the small servo has tiny holes in the arms! I took the thickest one and drilled as close to the hub as I could as the reversing rod doesn't need to move much, and it is very stiff at the moment so the more leverage the better.




And here's the final assembly, with the lock nut removed, the bolt shortened so it clears the servo body, and the whole thing tested with the R/C. You can see the back of the rod goes all the way to my mark. [Note: without the lock nut you have to screw the clevis hard on the rod and you loose any adjustability. If it isn't tight, the rod could rotate in the valve as you run and unscrew itself.]


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File Type: jpg 20200426_154736_reversing-done.jpg (193.0 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg 20200426_152721_reversing-probs.jpg (197.3 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg 20200426_151724_arm-drilled.jpg (139.3 KB, 122 views)
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Old 04-26-2020, 06:28 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Nice job Pete! Looking forward to it seeing it under steam
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Old 04-27-2020, 10:20 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Out of curiosity, I asked Shawn for pics of his engine. His was one of the first factory-built locos (there's a thread and video somewhere.)





As you can see, the lock nut and clevis are all the way on the threaded rod, but the lock nut is still used. I wonder what happened between that batch and ours.
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Old 04-27-2020, 01:16 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Interesting, it is a good question. I have no idea. I also wonder what the value of the lock nut is for since it is not like that clevis can turn based on the attachment to the forward/reverse lever.

Have you played with the oil valve yet? I filled the tube up with steam oil and have cracked the valve but I am not sure if I am getting enough steam oil into the cylinders yet.
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Old 04-27-2020, 03:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Interesting, it is a good question. I have no idea. I also wonder what the value of the lock nut is for since it is not like that clevis can turn based on the attachment to the forward/reverse lever.
Ah, but it can turn. The reversing valve rod can turn as it moves in and out, and (in theory) unwind the clevis from the rod. I jammed mine firmly against the end, but that means I lost any adjustment. If I need to, I will adjust and then lock it with a thinner nut or locktite.

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Have you played with the oil valve yet? I filled the tube up with steam oil and have cracked the valve but I am not sure if I am getting enough steam oil into the cylinders yet.
I cracked the valve on my first test but found no water in the lubricator after the run - which was only 30 seconds anyway!
Today, with the R/C hooked up, I steamed up again to see if the reversing worked (it did - see video.) This time I opened the valve about 1 full turn. I haven't checked whether it used any oil - it is still cooling down.

Edit: (2 hours later) no, it did not use oil. The gas and water are still in the loco, so I will light up with the top off the lubricator to see if there's a blockage. I'll bet it just needs to be open 1 1/2 turns initially.





I also did some re-fitting before this test. It was almost impossible to get behind the servo mount, so I drilled out the threads in the frame and used a regular M2 screw with a bolt underneath. Much easier!



The other refit was to put back the original servo. I had used an SG90 I had lying around (because I had oversized the only remaining arm for the supplied Hitec,) but I decided the Hitec would be good if I used another M2 nut with locktite on the arm. [I found my stash of metric nuts and bolts is what brought all this about.] The original rig had the throttle reversed, but I figured if I moved the arm 180 degrees it would no longer be reversed. And that gave me a chance to fix the bolt behind the mount.



The other reason for changing the bolt was that the servo cable is supposed to run underneath, but there are no clips to stop it dangling, so I made a couple with brass wire. One is under the new nut on the throttle servo mount.
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File Type: jpg 20200427_141910-servo-screw.jpg (214.0 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg 20200427_142725_servo-cable.jpg (219.1 KB, 101 views)
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Old 04-27-2020, 05:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Have you played with the oil valve yet?
It only took a couple of minutes to raise steam again with the lubricator cap off, and mine poured lots of steam out, so no blockage there.
The "running" instructions tell you to back off the adjustment screw at least 2 turns while it is running in. Then keep checking and work towards a single turn.
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Old 04-27-2020, 06:03 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thanks for pointing out it can turn, you are right. I thought about that after I posted... good call on locktite

I will open up my steam oil valve a bit more and check that out.

Looks like the RC is going well! Seems to run really smoothly

Kevin
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Old 04-27-2020, 09:20 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Pete, I adjusted my pressure valve a bit as it was leaking pretty badly at 3 bar. Found that with a little more pressure it would run better.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:10 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Pete, I adjusted my pressure valve a bit as it was leaking pretty badly at 3 bar. Found that with a little more pressure it would run better.
Haven't quite got there yet - and until they let me go and play trains with my garden layout pal, it won't be running anywhere.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:51 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Well this was a strange one. After screwing down the cab I had to fit a bolt behind the manifold to hold the steam line below the whistle.



It's essentially impossible - much easier to release the cab and get the bolt installed then re-attach the cab.

How did you guys do it? Did I miss an instruction?
(P.S. I already told Graham at Gardenrailways.co.uk, and I will be reporting my other findings to him. If you have any info/complaints, let me know. Latest is the headlight, which arrived with 2 bolts instead of 4. Good job I found my metric bolt stash!)
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