Overhaul of an old locomotive - Page 3 - myLargescale.com > Community > Forums


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Old 06-25-2020, 10:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The chassis all reassembled. It took a while because I was waiting on new screws to arrive. I added a spacer under the steam engine to add some tension to the chain but mostly to make it easier to remove the engine later. Paint has a way of sticking to things and I don't want to have to repaint the whole locomotive because I replaced the engine.
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Old 06-26-2020, 01:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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It's looking great.
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Now that the chassis is mostly put together I'm working on the boiler next. I've decided to remove the ferrule from the stack as it wasn't well fitted to begin with. At the lathe I almost always use collets. The exception being for hexagonal or square things or round things too big for my collet set, in which case I defer to chucks. The benefit of collets is easy to see here. The pipe that this stack is made from has a very thin wall, easily crushed by a chuck. With a collet, I can hold it tightly without fear.
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Before and After
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Old 06-28-2020, 09:16 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Wow, that is thin wall.
My lathe collets only go up to 1/2" so I have made a few pot chucks for larger sizes. I am lucky that my 3" 3-jaw that came with the lathe is true to under .001" but my 4" is off about .003" so I only use it when I have to.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You may consider getting an ER-40 to MT3 collet chuck. With that, you can hold stock up to 1 inch. Here's a look at my collet chuck for the PM-1022V lathe I set up not too long ago. It's essentially the same as I had for the mini lathe except that it's MT4. A drawbar holds it in place so it can't spring free with a bushing to center it.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:09 PM   #27 (permalink)
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To eject it I use a pair of opposed wedges set between the back of the collet chuck and the spindle flange. Loosen the drawbar but don't remove it. This will keep the collet chuck from flying out when the taper breaks free.


The gap for the wedges on the PM-1022V is pretty thin so I had to print them but for the mini lathe the gap is larger. The set of wedges I sold with my mini lathe was milled from UHMW. The ridge around the edge is not required.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The boiler bands are really loose. When I made them the first time I could only guess and check to set their length. Now I can model a part before I actually build it. Before and after. Also more painting.
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I'm in the home stretch so I'll save the big reveal for later. Here's a look at the burner before it goes under the boiler. It's still in near perfect shape. The final nut holding the boiler to the chassis is shared by the burner. The location is tough to reach so I have it attached to the end of a chop stick with some double sided tape. Just the thing for getting it started on the threads.
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:57 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The O-ring seals in the gas valve and throttle were toast. It's good to have an O-ring kit on hand to save time during these odd jobs.
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