Changing a Ruby to inside admission - Page 2 - myLargescale.com > Community > Forums


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Old 07-19-2020, 02:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Thornton View Post
So I google it and it turns out Dwight has it stored on his website:
http://www.SantaCruzLumberCo.com/MLS...uningARuby.pdf
BUT his whois record is out-of-date so the website is suspended.
This has been corrected. Thanks again Pete for the heads-up.
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Old 07-20-2020, 09:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Bill, no problem with printing the manual, thanks so much!

Pete, thanks for the oil links!

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Old 07-20-2020, 09:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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One thing I didn't mention is that for reverse admission, the Accucraft timing setting is done with the piston in front dead center and not rear dead center
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Old 07-20-2020, 09:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Of course one should use steam-oil. But if you are temporarily out of it, using normal car crancase oil is ok, until you get the right stuff. Even Aster wrote so in their instructionsfor my P8 / BR38. ( I would go for mineral, but seriously, probably even cooking oil or whatever, would do.)

Aso the water has a lubricating effect. Though running a completetly new engine without oil, is a bad idea, in my opinion.

Also, running on air for any extended time, without oil, makes me uneasy. During assembly, one normally puts some oil in the cylinders, so a bit of testrunning on dry air, is ok.
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Last edited by Pauli; 07-20-2020 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 07-20-2020, 09:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, this is great information!

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Old 07-20-2020, 12:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Regarding cylinder oil, I suppose in a pinch melted sheep's fat would do. It was used on the early locomotives, which is why oil cups and oiling cans are called "tallow pots" in steam era railroad jargon. Might be a bit hard to find, and a bit pungent, though.

Have fun, David Meashey
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Old 07-23-2020, 08:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Don’t want to sidetrack your post but I was just wondering how you fixed your old track? I’ve got about 200 feet that breaks if you look at it to hard.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Mugleston View Post
Don’t want to sidetrack your post but I was just wondering how you fixed your old track? I’ve got about 200 feet that breaks if you look at it to hard.
Brad, I don't want to appear a curmudgeon, but it isn't really polite to "hijack" a thread by asking about something of different relevance. It's very easy to start a new thread in the 'track' forum.
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