Hello you wrote that you had a lower gear box cover for a Bachamnn Connie if you are interested in selling it I would be interested. Please let me know if so and price and payment method.
Joe Augustine [email protected]
I will need the frames for #5 cut, but we're not yet to that point. My friend is working with a guy to get the tires turned, but I don't know where that stands. I'm in no hurry on this particular project...
Gluing styrene is easy with the various solvent cements available. I usually use the thin liquid stuff, but have a tube of the gel stuff for those times when it's needed. Also, I've become a fan of using 2-sided tape to laminate sheets of styrene together, particularly when I'm using a thin "skin" with rivets embossed in it over a thicker core. I've had issues with the solvent melting through the skin on occasion, and the tape takes the cement out of the equation except right along the edges.
For wood, I'll use Titebond II for most joints, though I'll also use super glue when needed for a quick bond to hold something in place. Whenever feasible, I'll use a mechanical fastener as well, either a small pin or screw. This is especially true on frames.
In terms of working with either material, they're very similar. You have to be a bit more careful when drilling styrene so not to melt the plastic, so keep the speed on your drill on the low end. The same holds true for cutting it with a saw. On the other hand the "score and snap" method of cutting styrene into strips is a lot more efficient than ripping planks of wood on a band saw. If you've got a miniature table saw, that works well, but you generate more waste depending on how wide your saw blade is. I usually end up buying the pre-cut stuff for things like decking and roof walks, but if I'm building a frame out of wood, I'll buy the 1/2" thick planks of basswood and rip it to size myself.
The more I build, the more I find myself gravitating towards styrene as my material of choice. There's nothing wrong with wood, but because I run outdoors and store my equipment in a shed outside, if nothing else, I have the peace of mind that if something were to happen and the equipment get damp or wet, I won't have any issues with warpage. I've got some box cars I did probably 12 years ago where the wood siding sheets I used are coming up along the edges. On one hand, it looks "weathered." On the other, it's not quite the effect I'm after.
The one exception to that rule is when I've got something that will be unpainted (natural) wood. An example would be flat car decks, roof walks, gondola sides--that kind of thing. You can paint styrene to look like natural wood pretty easily (and I do when needed) but nothing beats real thing.
Its been a while. I wanted to ask you two things. First, when scratch building in large scale what are the pros cons of building in wood vs polystyrene? My rolling stock will spend most of its life in the house on a display shelf.
second, do you still need the steel frame cut for #5?
My name is Brian Fowler. I am a high school advanced manufacturing teacher in Columbus, Ohio. I usually try to build things that are of interest to me. That being the PRR and the EBT. In my fictitious world the PRR continued its Electrification all the way to Pittsburgh, thus you would find a beautiful GG1 cruising past Mike #14. To make things really interesting my plan is to model everything in 1:32. 1:32n3 put the rail width just about at O gauge. (kind of like On30 using HO track).
I have all the tools needed, CNC mills, CNC lathes, laser cutter, 2 (soon to be 3) different types of 3D printers, and the latest Solidworks and AutoCAD software.
The only thing I lack is data and/or files.
My next project is to build the EBT coach #3 in 1:32. I was trying to access your archived blog on your "Orbisonia", but that link is down. Do you know where I can find it?
I didn't widen the tender, as it was only about 1/4" narrower on each side than the cab. That kind of difference between the width of the cab and tender isn't out of line with typical narrow gauge locos, so I let it go. In an ideal world, I probably would have liked to raise the tender tank a bit and not rely so much on the coal boards to give it some extra height, but that would have involved scratchbuilding a tender. The guy I was building this for wasn't paying for scratchbuilt tenders.
Say Kevin...for an Fscale annie bash..you mentioned widening the cab about 1/2"...
Shouldn't the tender be widened also..the same 1/2".
Any longer or taller..or just add the shapely higher metal hunger sides!!